Taking over a successful restaurant is a scary proposition. You’re certain to get a backlash from diners who miss the old ways. For Harry Hoang, who took over Marrickville’s famous pink palace, Bay Tinh, I was one of those haters!

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Taking over a successful restaurant is a scary proposition. You’re certain to get a backlash from diners who miss the old ways. For Harry Hoang, who took over Marrickville’s famous pink palace, Bay Tinh, I was one of those haters!  So consider this review, of his (slightly) more fancy Crows Nest spin-off, me eating humble pie. He won me over with his crazy French-Vietnamese parody of roast chook, chips’n'gravy: Roast Spatchcock ($21). It arrives dripping with rich, coconut gravy, offset by a neat pile of utterly fascinating sticky rice chips. It showed me that Harry’s found an authentic voice, enabling the creation of bold, new dishes. Heck, even with my growing disdain for Sydney’s sous-vide obsession, I rated his Slow Cooked Duck ($16). Okay, it was brilliantly disguised under a ripper cumquat sauce. A pot of Bonfire Beef and Prawns ($25) took me straight back to what I found fun about Vietnamese food in the first place; only now it comes with excellent cocktails. Try mixologist Alexx Stuart’s Vietnamese margarita, Chin Chin ($14). Eat everything I mentioned (and more) in a ridiculously cheap 7-course Winter Tasting Menu ($37/head). Just don’t come expecting a fine diner; as Harry quips: “We give you a material napkin, it’s an improvement, but that’s all it is.

Bay Tinh
16 Falcon Street, Crows Nest
Ph: (02) 9438 5118 www.baytinhrestaurant.com.au
Vietnamese $$-$$$

16 Falcon Street, Crows Nest, Australia
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