Caffe Sicilia should have been just like all the other restaurants – I eat, I write, and usually I don’t get a chance to visit again – such is the life of a restaurant critic. Somehow though, this one got under my skin. The Sicilian staff weren’t giving anything away. Through the grapevine I heard they’d all been exported from Sicily to work. No wonder they weren’t talking…

The site is one of Surry Hills perennial Thai restaurants, unexpectedly transformed into a surprisingly authentic Sicilian experience that’s almost three restaurants in one. Their day starts very early for the traditional baking routine of Paolo Zanotti, freshly transplanted from his Mediterranean homeland to bring the full arsenal of bready snacks and pastry indulgences.

“My day starts at 4.30am, as the caffe opens at 7am. There is a lot of preparation to be done. With the cannoli preparation, to make one batch, takes two days. The custards and ricotta fillings must be made a day in advance,” explains Paolo. He shows no rancour about making “up to 900 cannoli per week.” I don’t regret eating any of them either. With no disrespect meant to the good bakers of Haberfield, they are a contender for Sydney’s best.

By the time Caffé Sicilia opens for breakfast the counters are covered in everything from savoury ham & cheese Calzone to sweet Nutella-filled Noccione. The coffee is expertly poured and consistently good, with some rather artistic foam touches when Barista BJ Rai is on. I know this because one day, I glanced down into my latte, and jumped because a man was staring right back!

“Since I was a child, I spent a lot of my time sketching and painting. As an adult, I do it on coffees instead of paper and pen. I went to Danes Coffee School when Matthew Brown was the instructor. He poured some amazing Rosetta’s and double Rosetta’s so that really inspired me to start with coffee art. Other people who I look up to are Jack Hanna, Sam Corra, David Makin and Soji Sasha to name a few,” explains the earnest BJ.

The flavour here is not just Italian, in that generic way we all know and love, it’s Sicilian and you’d better notice the differences. Think of it like a cool warmth or a stylish lack of pretension. But it’s real and it’s good and it’s a long way from fake. It’s also a long way from home.

Pastry and Gelato Chef Giovanni Pistritto admitted that his “transition and relocation to Sydney has not been an easy one”. Through an interpreter he explained: ”coming to Australia to start work at Caffe Sicilia was like a child moving cities and starting their first day at school. This process was made a lot easier as my wife and daughter made the trip with me to Australia. Although I am producing pastry that I was making in Sicily, becoming familiar with the local products (dairy in particular) was challenging and having to tweak recipes to authenticate the traditional flavours was a challenge. Although I miss Sicily as it is my home of birth I have no regrets and am loving my time here in Australia and I see my future for my family here.” Which is lucky, because I see the future of Sydney’s Italian food in here too.

Lunch is tight and confident; full of deceptively simple peasant food dishes packed with flavour and cooked to technical perfection. I keep coming back to the house-made maccaroni with porcetta and fennel seed – so few elements in such perfect harmony takes real guts.

Dinnertime sees it shift into a third restaurant – the big, comprehensive menu is rolled out, the lights dim, the colours and ambience become warmer and the chefs get to fire their heavy artillery in full, multi-course, Southern Italian glory. It’s romantic Euro-nostalgia seems in stark contrast to the bright and buzzy daytime space, a credit to the remarkably adaptable fitout.

This is the kind of place you introduce friends to, confident in the knowledge that they’ll think it’s a real find, and introduce their friends with that same knowing confidence. I’d take anyone from a relative to a client to a date. They’ll all be won over by it’s distinctly and idiosyncratically Sicilian charms.

I’m not done with it yet, either. My next mission is to get acquainted with their new Carpigiani Maestro granita and gelato-making machine. It’s the only one in Australia (I suspect we’ve been robbed) and they’ll be turning out a coarser cut of ice in four traditional flavours – chocolate, lemon, coffee and almond. It’s what the cool kids will be slurping this summer.

Caffe Sicilia
628 Crown Street, Surry Hills
Ph: (02) 9699 8787 www.caffesicilia.com.au
Open: 7 days, 7am-12am (Sundays ’til 10pm)

In a building adorned with some of the most striking images in the country, it’s a clever designer that made this restaurant a stark, minimalist space. Floor to ceiling windows let in the only thing that could possibly compete – nature – with a striking aspect overlooking Woolloomooloo and the Royal Botanic Gardens. Of course being an art gallery first, and a restaurant second, it should be no surprise that menus here revolve around what’s on display. Since ‘Picasso’ is the name on everyone’s lips right now, they’ve taken a Spanish-inspired jaunt, obvious in entrees like Sardines with Manchego Crumbs, Sorrel and Radicchio ($22), but less apparent in Beef Carpaccio with Nasturtium Flower, Goat’s Curd and Confit Lemon ($23). The latter is a light, interesting combination that (quite pleasantly) conjured lemon meringue for me. Spanish Pearl Barley with Wild Mushrooms, Zucchini Flower and Murcia Al Vino ($28) let down the silky mushrooms and creamy goats’ cheese with overcooked pearl barley. Eschew desserts for a Selection of Spanish Cheese with Fig Chutney and Muscatels ($22), mostly as an excuse to linger over well-priced wines, like the 2009 Plantagenet Omrah Rosé ($39/bottle). After all, appreciating obscure art is often easier with lubrication. A ‘Lunch with Picasso’ ($75/ 2-course) package is available via Ticketek.

The Restaurant
Art Gallery of NSW, Art Gallery Road, Sydney
Ph: (02) 9225 1819 www.artgalleryrestaurant.com.au
Modern Australian $$$$

The problem with Modernism is: it doesn’t stay modern forever. What do you do when a Harry Seidler starts to date? You renovate; a cool $8 million later and the garden’s mostly gone, pulling Lyn Utzon’s palm frond mosaic to prominence. Industry stalwart Frank Angilletta (ex-Martini Bar) has expanded into the more stylish space with a revamped lunch menu by Massimo Bianchi (ex-Uccello). It outperforms what one normally expects from a counter-style kitchen. Gregarious Gorgonzola Dolce with Grilled Eggplant, Zucchini, Peppers and Pesto ($12) makes for a rockin’ vegetarian bruschetta. Skinless, spreadable and extra spicy Nduja Salami with Ricotta and Red Pepper Bruschetta ($12) packs an even bigger punch. Tramezzini (soft, white, crust-less bread) suits Smoked Salmon, Mascarpone, Avocado and Spanish Onion ($8); helping it outclass many a Sydney high tea. The prominence of good produce continues into a Modus Club Sandwich ($15), lower in layers than most, but definitely showing no ill effect. The Terracotta Special of the Day ($15) proved to be well-sized and tasty rigatoni with ham, peas and fior di latte. Wash it down with a ripper Pago Pear ($3.50) or partake of a well-made brew. Morning (and afternoon) Mecca coffee addicts can be avoided by timing your visit as a leisurely lunch.

Modus Caffe
No. 9 Castlereagh Street, Sydney
Ph: (02) 9223 9131 www.moduscaffe.com.au
Italian/Café $

Perched at the pretty end of the QVB, this is the kind of place I’d never usually review. You see, it’s chock-a-block, even three days after a complete renovation. Half the people inside don’t even seem aware that celebrated chef Danny Russo is behind the Italian-Australian menu. They’re just here for an after-work coffee, or to fuel a girly shopping adventure. Danny’s Classic Lasagne with Veal Ragu and Mozzarella ($19) will provide enough energy to combat both the QVB and Westfield Sydney, but if you want to fit that bikini, the Cured Ocean Trout Carpaccio ($18) buried under radish, apple and cress, might be more appropriate. Though the slender ladies at the next table did bemoan the lack of cream on their Fettuccine with Prawns, Chilli, White Wine, Garlic and Rocket ($26), perhaps they just chose the wrong dish? My Spinach and Ricotta Cannelloni ($21) came with a dreamy, porcini sauce – wicked in all the right ways. And who says you can’t drink cheaply and well in the CBD? Throw down fizzy NV Fantinel Prosecco ($38/bottle) with the girls, or sip 2010 Caldor Pinot Grigio ($32/bottle) with a colleague destined to become something more. I suggest stuzzichini like golden Arancini with Saffron and Mozzarella ($9) to avoid getting drunk and inappropriate…

Jet Bar Caffe
Shop G55, 455 George Street, Queen Victoria Building, Sydney
Ph: (02) 9283 5004 www.jetbarcaffe.com
Café/Italian/Australian $$-$$$

Breakfast at Brown Sugar is more hyped than Breakfast at Tiffany’s. So, ignoring the ‘Best Breakfast in the East’ award bestowed by Sydney diners, and numerous poached egg recommendations from friends, I discovered that this cafe actually shines at night. Seared Local Scallops ($17) with parsnip puree, hazelnuts, pear and saffron chutney are a silky delight, perfectly designed and presented. Yellow Fin Tuna Tataki ($17), similarly plated like a work of art, is served with crispy apple, avocado and coriander salad. It’s not just seafood; they do a superb Crispy Pork Belly ($32) with carrot puree and black lentils. Sheltered in mustard cress and surrounded by walnuts, it looks like a wood cabin, making it something to be marveled at. And yes, it tastes as good too. The Twice-Baked Gruyere Soufflé ($17) looks stunning on the plate but is let down by over-saltiness, heightened by the cured ham up top. However the Slow Roasted Hapuka ($32) gets all of its elements to balance, the carrot and chickpeas with perfect Moroccan flavours and a mild New Zealand fish. Save room for the Pumpkin Pie ($14), it’s warm, tempting and comes with salted peanut ice cream, making it the bling in an already glimmering crown.

Brown Sugar
106 Curlewis Street, Bondi
Ph: (02) 9130 1566 www.brownsugarbondi.com.au
Modern Australian $$

This café embraces the positives of the experimental 70s, from the vinyl records on the wall to the groovy burgers and shakes on the menu. Their LSD is caffeine and I recommend you dabble in a Maple Mottle ($3) double ristretto, maple syrup, chocolate shavings, cream and chili flakes. It’s like a snooze-alarm; it wakes you once with a sugary caffeine hit, and again with mouth-tingling chili. Return to earth with that 70s breakfast: Bubble and Squeak ($15). There’s nothing recession-years about it with generous poached eggs, Parmesan, sautéed cabbage, bacon, potato and peas. Wash it down with a Pink Floyd ($5.50) with raspberry, pineapple and apple, which is very bright side of the moon. The Char-grilled Chicken Burger ($15.50) is a mod-burger in a glossy bun with crumbed chicken so juicy it’s like bee-stung schnitzel and stacked with pesto, bacon, avocado and roasted tomatoes. A side of chat potatoes makes a nice alternative to twiggy shoestring fries.  Every burger should be accompanied by a shake and their coffee-flavoured Mottle Shake ($6.50) is the ticket. The Paddington clientele might be more ‘Harper Valley PTA’ but good on Tiger Mottle for pushing the boundaries. With Hendrix-style coffee, they’re sure to have some swingers.

Tiger Mottle
248 Glenmore Road, Paddington
Ph: (0402) 520 516 www.tigermottle.com
Café $-$$

A Saturday morning search for muesli, to some, may seem as exciting as Sunday church. Well, I’ve been converted. This hole-in-the-wall café amongst Surry Hill’s fashion warehouses is spinning muesli gold. On the premises they hand-make flavour concoctions like Burnt Fig and Cinnamon Almond Toasted Muesli ($6) served in a pot with milk or yoghurt. Winter Porridge with Rhubarb, Honey Drizzle and Muscatels ($6) is especially delicious. There’s even a Gluten Free Pineapple and Quinoa Crunch ($6). Inside, sniff your way through little pots of ingredients like almonds, ginger, hazelnut, coconut, dried orange and more. ‘Farmer Jo’ is Sally Tulloch but it’s clear this venture is a family affair. Husband is a coffee distributor for Molinari, her charming brother grinds the beans and Mum makes the slices. So try ‘Mum’s Slice’ ($1.50) a chewy square of rice bubbles and Mars bar goodness best with a Latte ($3) – the post-breakfast of champions. It’s open daily for breakfast or DIY if you buy products onsite or at the Eveleigh or Bondi Farmers’ Markets.  Be warned, this intimate café starts off feeling like you’re crashing a family breakfast, but you’ll soon secure a spot on the bench and be feeling right at home, wondering how oats got so chic?

Farmer Jo
45 Hutchinson Street, Surry Hills
www.farmerjo.com.au
Café $

In case you didn’t know, the (new) name of this tucked-away café, is a literary reference to a nonsense word used in The Owl & The Pussycat. Edward Lear’s characters consume mince (and quince), using a runcible spoon, which pretty much equates to a splayd (big in the seventies). Add this obscure culinary reference to rustic house-made Fruit Loaf ($6), a scattering of cookbooks like Neil Perry’s Rockpool, and decent pepper on the tables; and you’re in a little café with big ambitions. Thankfully they’re realized in the generously spiced Spanish Eggs with Harissa and Woodfire Toast ($14.50), and the first really successful Breakfast Torte ($16.50) I’ve ever had, aided by house-made tomato relish, and organic Berrima Ridge eggs. There are even credible vegetarian options like fat Baked Pumpkin Gnocchi ($14.50) and colourful Soft Tacos with Black-Eyed Beans, Corn, Jalapenos, Avocado and Tomato Salsa ($15.00). Even the carrot cake is a sight to behold; and don’t get me started about the Hazelnut, Peanut and Caramel Japonaise ($7.50). Add whimsical Perry & Son wallpaper, and a Flat White ($3.50) of my favourite (Golden Cobra) beans; and I’m already planning to return for French Toast with Caramelised Apple & Cinnamon Anglaise ($15.00). Hopefully it stays long enough on the ever-changing menu.

Runcible Spoon
27 Barr Street, Camperdown
Ph: (02) 9519 2727 www.runciblespoon.com.au
Café $-$$

Since my last visit, new owners Andrew Menczel and Laci Csobonyei have taken the stark out of this Philippe Starck space. With Laci’s own artworks now adorning the walls, and a mural of Budapest backing the kitchen, the overall effect is quite homely. Despite being an architectural purist, I will admit to preferring the newly painted floor and shiny light fittings. Midweek, diners hail from nearby offices, arriving for daily sandwich specials and a mug of Toby’s Estate. On weekends, you’ll find a laidback collection of Surry Hills locals devouring all-day breakfasts. A slightly burnt Flat White ($3.50) picked things up with a bonus wafer. My sniffily nose appreciated the gentle Peppermint and Organic Refresh Tea ($4/pot); whilst my dining companion’s hangover responded to Tomato Juice ($5). Besides the usual café favourites, taken up a notch by using premium ingredients, the menu reads like it was compiled on a Eurail Pass. All aboard for a spectacular ‘Goats on Toast’ ($12) featuring a warm wheel of Trinity Cellars goat’s cheese, Brasserie Bread’s ripper sour cherry loaf, smashed walnuts and drizzled honey. Next stop – Spanish Baked Eggs with Chorizo, Olives and Manchego ($16.90) – a well-presented plate, let down only by fully set yolks.

Two Good Eggs
Shop 2, 148 Goulburn Street (cnr Brisbane Street), Surry Hills
Ph: (02) 9283 9694 www.twogoodeggs.com.au
Café $-$$

A wise friend once updated that she loves her morning coffee from Sole Espresso because she knows that however bad her ensuing day might be, it’s only 24-hours until the next cup. Words to live by…

My own hunt for the perfect coffee has been fraught with peril. It’s taken me a while to work out which part is the brand, and which part is the barista, but now I think I have it nailed. Increasingly it’s all come down to three labels for me. I like my Allpress from Café Mint in Surry Hills; my The Little Marionette from the Balmain café by the same name; and I like my The Golden Cobra pretty much anywhere I can find it.

My descent into becoming one of ‘those coffee-fascists’ was aided by the purchase of a home coffee machine. Increasingly what I buy to use at home, is the same brand of coffee I drink at these excellent cafes. So as you can imagine, hunting down the elusive Golden Cobra in take-home packs was high on my list of priorities.

I met owner David Gilfillan at his Botany roastery. He came into coffee roasting after being a barista for over fifteen years. What started as a part time uni job has developed into a business back in 2005, and now clearly consumes a large part of his life. Though David’s quick to add: “You’ve got to work into your business model the way you want to do it.”

In fact, David has a very likable approach toward business. Rather than be purely profit driven, he incorporates some quirks, which he refers to (rather charmingly) as ‘Cobranesses’. One such Cobraness explains why you won’t find a recognisable logo on his coffee. Instead David supports local artists to produce the works featured on his stickers, which change every week. It was one of these very stickers in the window of The Eathouse Diner in Redfern that lead me to a rather excellent espresso martini.

The Eathouse Diner

Across the Sydney venues where I have found his products – from Tiger Mottle in Paddington to The Runcible Spoon in Camperdown – I’ve noticed that the baristas seem to do a uniformly good job with his coffee. So it didn’t surprise me to hear David discounts the café’s purchase if they attend training with him. He adds seriously: “You would make a lot of coffee in that three hours.” In fact his trainees make up six kilos of coffee apiece in those three precious hours, but from a consumer’s perspective, it makes one hell of a difference in the cup!

“No offense to your sommelier, but you can teach your barista to pour drinks,” offers David. Whilst I wouldn’t be dispensing with the sommelier just yet, I can see David’s point. Restaurants are often the worst offenders of the substandard cup. It’s partially why I tend to take my coffee in the morning, rather than at night.

While David might be a little scathing about sommeliers’ coffee making skills, he does make a good point about valuing your barista: “If I get a really good cup of coffee, I make a point of tipping the rest of my change from five bucks.” What excites David about someone else’s blend is the presence of “something deliberate”,  something the roaster has done to the coffee; perhaps a particular note he has highlighted. He’s quite humble about his own skills though; explaining that: “I’m now five years in, and the more that you know about coffee, you really get reminded that you know jack-shit.”

The Golden Cobra Roastery

So if all this coffee talk has made you salivate for a taste, David tells me: “The Golden Cobra does ten blends weekly that I really love, and none that I don’t.” He adds new products when he finds “something… a taste that I haven’t got before” and the blends all rotate weekly. Each week his customers receive an email telling them what blends are on, and you can order your favourite fix delivered right to your door.

The Golden Cobra blends

So what’s next for The Golden Cobra? Well David Gilfillan “would kill to do a market.” He throws down the challenge: “I could mop the floor with anyone else doing a market.” Not bad for a business that “started with next to nothing – on a credit card” and now manages to employ six people, plus plays a role in supporting Sydney’s artists. I hope some farmers’ market gives him the chance to strut his wares soon.

Now there’s only seven hours and twenty-two minutes until my next perfect cup…

The Golden Cobra
www.thegoldencobra.com