The hipness of the flaming, nightclub-style fit-out belies the seriousness of the cooking - so don’t be put off by overhead aphorisms, the food is definitely less glib. Cocktails will ease your passage into pretentious - the Strawberry Blonde ($18) is fizzy, fun and feminine; while the Warsaw Club ($18) throws off a girly facade with masculine Védrenne fig liqueur stiffened by egg-white foam.
I don’t know about you, but I fancy myself as a bit of an ethical shopper. I buy ethical produce; I care about provenance; I shop at Farmers’ Markets; and I even remember my canvas bags every now and then. Why is it then, that the humble co-op is such a sticking point for me?