With thousands of years of culinary history behind them, it should come as no surprise that the Chinese even do surf’n’turf better, as a decadent cold platter of Suckling Pig and Jellyfish ($?) demonstrated. That was served before my evening’s real ‘golden egg’, a ten-month old BBQ Goose ($88/whole) cooked in the style of Peking duck. It’s glistening crisp skin gives way to tender, less-gamey flesh. I eat the liver too, in a lip smacking tango called Beef Cube Stir Fry with Goose Liver ($28.80) so salty it did have me reaching for my 2010 Vasse Felix Chardonnay ($40) more times than was proper. Aussie-grown goose aces Kam Fook’s Special Roast Chicken ($22.80). Regardless it’s a lovely, moist bird, cooked to perfection in a ‘spaceship oven’, arriving with crisp skin bespeckled by crunchy garlic crisps. A contrasting course of Snow Crab with Ginger and Shallot ($88/kilo) gives me pause. It’s delicate flesh rivals that of mud crab, with a truly tantalising flavour difference that even has me extracting orange lobes of roe. General Manager Alan Yeung (a qualified international food judge) explains Chinese culture dictates large restaurants can demand a better market share of good suppliers. You’ll taste it on the plate here.

Kam Fook Seafood Restaurant
Shop 6010, Level 6, Westfield Shopping Centre, 100 Oxford Street, Bondi Junction
Ph: (02) 9386 9889 www.kamfook.com.au
Chinese $$$-$$$$

The owls are not what they seem. Lurking beneath the respectable veneer of this thirty-year Paddington café stalwart is something subversive for this staid strip. Armed with a modern barbeque in the cosy courtyard garden, the “ridiculously attractive” Stephen Wong (blame my dining companion) trots out an unusual and underpriced menu of Asian influenced, modern Australian cuisine. Stephen’s guided by an owner/restaurateur with thirty years teppanyaki experience; and by golly it shows in tender Double Cooked Beef Ribs ($18.50) and a Melting Moment ($26) of grade 6+ grass fed beef with red wine butter. Three generously fleshy pieces of Crispy Mario’s Quails ($16.50) fly through our fingers and are stuffed into our salivating mouths. Our piggery is slowed (slightly) by a Roquefort Salad ($16.50) that rapidly descends into a two-fork treasure hunt for the best creamy blue cheese ever to be tossed into rocket! Choose the 2009 Steeds Run Shiraz as it’s drinking companion. Demonstrating considerable culinary confidence, Stephen flirts with burnt flavours in both the evening’s Twin Peaks – a crazy-good salted caramel and roasted peanut Panna Cotta ($12) and a silky Lemon-Lime Tart ($9). Combine them with February’s ten-dollar-a-dish introductory special, and I’m channelling Josie Packard for a return visit, pronto.

Sloanes Café
312 Oxford Street, Paddington
Ph: (02) 9331 6717 www.sloanescafe.com.au
Modern Australian/Asian $$

Even with the weather being recalcitrant, summer is a time to store up lasting memories with family and friends. I recall one glorious afternoon spent under the leafy green arbour of a Paddington backyard. The property’s owner was none other than Max Kreijn – painter, writer and a truly fabulous home cook…

As we supped on his lime spatchcock, I flicked through the wonderfully painterly pages of his cookbook, The Painter In The Kitchen [RRP $38]. It’s now onto its second run in this portent Year of the Dragon, a fact Max plays cheeky homage to with a cover of (Thai) dragon fruit. Max dedicates it to his mother, grandmothers and aunts, who (thankfully) “did not think it was girly for a ten-year-old boy to want to learn how to cook”. Alongside the dish I so enjoyed, you’ll find Max’s two favourites Gigot Farci (garlic stuffed deboned leg of lamb) and a risotto with zucchini-flowers, tucked away amongst 150 recipes and 100 paintings. Buy it from Amazon if you enjoy classic, non-fussy dishes stemming mostly from the south of France, or if you just like owning beautiful things.
http://amzn.com/1461102863

Max always cooks with a glass of red wine at hand, which brings me to my second item, Bartender of the Year. It has a nice ring to it doesn’t it? This is Phil Gandevia of Eau de Vie (still my favourite cocktail bar) making the winning entry in the first semi-final of this year’s World Class cocktail competition. He took out the Gentleman’s Cocktail category aboard a boozy boat cruising Sydney Harbour earlier in January. He’ll be competing for the national title against Melbournite Fred Siggins from Kodiak Club, and Queenslander Perryn Collier from The Laneway. The winner will carry our Aussie hopes into the esteemed World Class global final. Honestly for me, it’s just a really good excuse to drink a bloody good cocktail. I’m already feeling a powerful thirst for Phil’s creation – The Continental.
www.facebook.com/WorldClassAustralia

If you can’t stand waiting in a cocktail queue, grab some champers and dive out into any breaks in this wild, windy weather. Rather than tell you about my personal favourites, I’ll direct you to another book. This one is also by someone I’ve had the pleasure of dining with – Jayne Powell, better known as Champayne Jayne. She’s produced a great book called Champagnes – Behind The Bubbles [RRP $80] that will help you through ‘champagne season’ with clever drinking facts like how many bubbles are in your average glass, as well as a beginners guide to future champagne snobbery.
www.champagnejayne.com

Buffet. The mere word seems to fill most Sydneysiders with horror. I guess growing up here; the word did become synonymous with Sizzler. In my mind though, I’m always leaving Las Vegas in a post-Elvis wedding haze, savouring the taste of the world’s most perfect raspberry jube from Bally’s Sterling Buffet. If that’s out of your reach, this is Sydney’s best attempt to reach for those lofty heights. First stop seafood, and whilst the Midweek Buffet ($65/head) certainly contains a good selection, an eye-catching but underwhelming spanner crab makes the Friday/Saturday ($95/head) additions of lobster and a chocolate fountain tempting. If you’re on the corporate account, head for a Brian Croser/Jacques Bollinger joint project, the 2001 Tapanappa ‘Tiers’ ($165/bottle) and you’ll forget everything. It goes nicely with cold cuts, as you ponder groovy overhead LED chandeliers. It’s a pal to Pepe Saya, Aussie butter king, on a range of lovely bread. You’ll like it with the carvery, or any of the constantly restocked and tempting tajines. This venue gets the simple things right – temperature, presentation, cleanliness and speed. Staff are so attentive they remove plates before you even feel guilty about waste, allowing you to cake, cheese and pudding yourself into oblivion. Rooms are just a waddle away…

Café Opera
Intercontinental Sydney, 117 Macquarie Street, Circular Quay
Ph: (02) 9253 9396 www.intercontinental.sydney.com
World $$$

On a balmy evening in December, I found the time to pop into Bistro Bruno, one of Balmain’s more recent restaurant additions. From a chair on the wide balcony, I talked food with owner Erez Gordon, as we sipped Negroni cocktails, ate aperitivi and watched the daylight dwindle.

It’s a killer location; so I’ve been looking for a reason to revisit. It’s called Lobsta-Palooza! Hurry in during the last breath of January between 6pm-7pm and receive a classic ‘Fruits de Mer’ platter for $55/head. Erez promises it will arrive bearing “oysters, king prawns, tiger prawns, harbour shrimp, black lip mussels, razor clams, scallops in the half shell, scampi, blue swimmer crab and lobster” casually reclining on a bed of ice. Of course you’ll also sip great wine, and feed each other morsels seductively dipped into intriguing condiments.

If that’s not got you leaping for the nearest phone, fire up your libido even further on Valentine’s Day. Before I could get the words ‘commercial exploitation’ out of my mouth, Erez told me about a dessert of Callebaut chocolate fondue with berry brochettes and house made marshmallows matched to an adults only vanilla malt thickshake served with two straws. Yeah all right, it’s sex-on-a-stick as far as I’m concerned – what’s not to love about soft, pillowy marshmallows, rich, chocolate sauce and a two-straw tango? It’s part of a four-course affair with matching wines for $110/head (pay in January, get 10% off). Word on the street is: if you’d prefer to partake with more than one paramour, here they don’t bat an eyelid.
www.bistrobruno.com.au

Since we’re already slurping, I’m going to segue into one of the first frosty beverages that won my heart. It was 1978; I was four; and the iconic icy beverage was 7-Eleven’s Slurpee. What’s got me excited about it again during Sydney’s most dubious attempt at summer on record, is them depicting it in graffiti on a t-shirt designed by Sydney-based artist Deb. I went gaga over her work recently on Cockatoo Island, and adorning Melbourne’s famous Hosier Lane. Snaffle her Graffiti Tee for $15, or suck down fifteen Supersized Slurpees (okay, possibly excessive) to earn it for free.
www.slurpee.com.au

For a more gentile slurp, you’ve also got until February to get over to the Coco Republic designed Clicquot Summer Lounge at Hawthorn Mosman. I think it’s the perfect antidote to taking the kids to Taronga Park Zoo! Chef Scott Parson’s spent some time tasting the Champagnes of Veuve Clicquot and matched them to morsels like house cured ocean trout on blinis with crème fraiche and fish roe. Please have a flute of the NV Rose ($25) for me.
www.hawthornmosman.com.au

The first rule of Jamie’s Kitchen is: you do not talk about Jamie’s Kitchen as if it were a fine diner, no matter how distressed or funky it looks inside. This particular boy’s club is about making girls horny. We’re talking girls you’d like to marry (or already have), arriving from suburbia in their civvies, snaffling Tea Towels ($19.50/4) with babes – welcomed as you’d hope – in hand. The floor team lives the brand; and absorbs any loose admiration flying ’round. It works because of their commitment and near-military precision from the kitchen (and beyond). Foodies might cry disappointment, but it’s the height of a produce-driven ‘soup kitchen’; serving Italianate nosh with Posh Chips ($6) that chop Charlie & Co’s back down to fries. Antipasti Meat ($13/head) thrives from great producers; while Smoky Scamorza Arancini ($9.50) help Pieropan Soave ($13.50/glass) sing. A luxuriant Buffalo Ricotta Ravioli ($14) had me cooing before tender Veal Saltimbocca ($27) became my friend. Flimsy slices of Pineapple Carpaccio ($7.50) are set simply against blood orange sorbet, inspiring me to remember Executive Chef Dave Clarke’s Chophouse days. Over an Affogato ($6) I muse: it might not be perfect, but it’s a restaurant del popolo. Roll ‘em out lads.

Jamie’s Italian
107 Pitt Street, Sydney
Ph: (02) 8240 9000 www.jamiesitalian.com.au
Italian $$-$$$

Balance is restored in North Newtown with the opening of its first wine bar. Sharon Chalmers and her partner Maria have created a space that reflects Newtown, from its diverse menu, all the way to the local photographs on the walls. A Totara Sauvignon Blanc ($8/$32) whets our appetite before we let the Garlic King Prawns & Grilled Chorizo ($15) dance a salty tango in our mouths. Beetroot & Goats Cheese Parcels ($10) aren’t wrapped in pastry as expected, but in delicate pockets of beetroot. Blissfully surprised, we try a red the waiter recommends from the handpicked list. The Innocent Bystander Pinot Noir 2010 ($8/$39) is a light, cherry-toned drop that goes swimmingly with the Pan-Roasted Snapper ($26); its pepper mousse, tomato salsa, spinach and fennel side makes for an expertly thought-out dish, plated prettily as well. But it’s the Wine Plate Cheese Selection ($22) that has given my late night cravings a new address. Generous amounts of cheese, quince paste and honey and with a glass of Prosecco Sparkling ($8/$39) – it’s the best pairing in Newtown since Berkelouw Books starting serving ramen. Good drinking food – and vice versa – in an environment that doesn’t make you feel like you need a secret sommelier app on your  iPhone.

The Wine Plate
62-64 King Street, Newtown
Ph: (02) 8094 9994 www.thewineplate.com.au
Tapas/Modern Australian $-$$

On the greyer side of Randwick’s Spot amongst Indian diners and Laundromats, you’ll find this new Modern-Australian gem. The husband and wife team play to their strengths, tallying them together on a chalkboard of specials. The Pork Belly ($14.50) entrée has layers of crispiness in every mouthful: crunchy pork, crispy potato strings and a delicate chili and watercress salad. With a glass of Villa Maria Two Valleys ‘Sauvignon Blanc’ ($7.80/$34) it screams summer, even if the weather outside disagrees. The other sweet coupling is found in the Noisettes of Lamb ($28.50) stacked on caramelised sweet potato. Served with a zucchini ribbon wreath and a sweet onion marmalade, it’s a marriage of effervesce. Blinis ($16.50) should always be seen with smoked salmon like they are here, fun and flighty, like a Russian ballerina. Likewise, the Crème Brûlée ($14) with strawberries marinated in orange syrup, go superbly with the sweet, French Pavillon Le Brie Monbazillac ($5.90/$21.60). “It’s the law of attraction,” as my Secret-living dining partner suggests. Kudos to the chef who refused to serve his white chocolate tart to anyone as he didn’t believe it was up to scratch. Bistro Avoca caters to the comfortably in love – because sometimes the food should do all the talking.

Bistro Avoca
133 Avoca Street, Randwick
Ph: (02) 9399 9667 www.bistroavoca.com.au
Modern Australian $$

If you come expecting the rich, brooding opulence of The Victoria Room, you’re likely to be disappointed when you arrive at this ‘sunny’ Westfield Sydney outpost. Inside the white picket fence is a girly, whimsical space, best thought of as the everlasting day to the older Darlinghurst sibling’s eternal night. The garden party vibe here makes it easy to kick off your heels and throw back champagne! My BFF for the adventure, yummy Mummy to the tenacious Miss Two, remarked that the glass of Moet and Chandon Brut Imperial accompanying our Couture High Tea ($56/head) “was so welcome” she’d forgo better food for it. Looking around, she wasn’t alone – for tired Mothers this is a welcome oasis. The ambient buzz from the surrounding retail mecca drowns out their youngsters, and neatly sidesteps hauling them into a bar for a frowned upon flute of fizz. Miss Two was kept happy with crust-free sandwiches while we scoffed Belgian mousse tarts, creamy pistachio cheesecakes and passionfruit cupcakes. We both selected the Christmas scone from the impressive ten-scone menu. It’s a fragrant affair of cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, dates, orange zest and brandy served with cream and chunky marmalade; it could be only be improved by slower heating.

The Victoria Room Tea Salon
Level 4 (Designer Gallery), Westfield Sydney, 188 Pitt Street, Sydney
Ph: (02) 9357 4488 www.theteasalon.com.au
High Tea $$$$

Whilst the weather belies it, it’s definitely December. This means there are only a ridiculously small number of shopping days until you-know-what. I mostly travel to avoid the whole issue, but if you do find yourself trapped between bah humbug and a toasted ethical pig’n’cheese sanga on Boxing Day (my favourite day of the year), I do have three options…

1)    My own Christmas will be spent in the Hunter Valley this year. Some types of families function better when they’re taken out of their (power)houses and plonked right into the middle of a Christmas Lights Spectacular. It’s the Hunter Valley Gardens’ fifth year running it, and this time their acreage will be filled with well over a million Christmas lights! Idle mouths can be kept occupied with German, Turkish and sugary options from ice cream to hot nuts and fairy floss. If that doesn’t work, the boom of fireworks will drown out any skirmishes. A winery tour the next day should rinse any residual unpleasantness out of your mouth and stock you up for the New Year. At only $17.50/head it’s definitely a humbug highlight; and on every night from now until the 14th January (with a break on C-Day).
www.hvg.com.au

2)    Sometimes humbugs function better if ‘perceived’ ingratitude isn’t preceded by a truckload of effort. Avoid resentment by taking the whole family into Café Opera at the InterContinental Sydney. Heck – book yourself a room and get slowly sloshed over a pre-Christmas (up to 23rd December) buffet of ham, turkey, seafood and decadent desserts ($55/lunch, $65/dinner). They’re obviously more expensive on the big day ($220/lunch) but you do also get a whole beverage package to keep you all occupied.

Don’t be put off by the word ‘buffet’ either – this is one of the best I’ve seen in Sydney (Bally’s Sterling Brunch in Las Vegas still wins) with a live carvery, small and frequently refreshed live cooking stations, plus all the lobster, prawns, oysters, mussels and blue swimmer crab you care to enjoy.
www.sydney.intercontinental.com

3)    If you absolutely have to enter the city’s central shopping district, give those tortured tootsies a break and avoid shopping fatigue by checking into The Tea Room QVB. Head Chef, Shane Davey has prepared a Decadent December High Tea ($43/head), which will level up your Christmas spirit without becoming onerously thematic. Scoff seasonal scones while they lay on little sandwiches, delicate gingerbread macaroons and eggnog. If you’re in a savoury mood, he’s also offering an a la carte lunch of one to three courses ($33-$55/head) with dishes like a roast salmon fillet with cucumber and mango salad and flying fish caviar beurre blanc. Indulge – take a girlfriend; take a book; or bury your nose in your iPhone like the rest of Sydney.
www.thetearoom.com.au