More than just a menu change, this year Chef Gallery have changed their logo, livery and launched a unique art initiative showcasing Chinese (or Chinese-inspired) art, curated by Simon Chan. Responsible for the gleaming red chair, artist Laurens Tan explained that China is “the nation or the culture that underwent the most change in the last two decades.” His piece The Depth of Ease represents the contrast between the new, seemingly comfortable Chinese life, and the underlying tension of living where people can be “executed for breaking rules that don’t exist.” The beautifully photographed menu may also create tension between real and conceptual, with King Prawns with Wasabi Mayo and Fish Roe ($24.90) not quite living up to the artfully scattered ideal. You’ll experience no such disappointment with cold entrees like the Chinese Mixed Vegetable Salad ($9.90) with shimeji mushrooms, black fungus and bamboo shoots. Tom Yum Rice with Chicken ($16.90) overwhelmed with intense lemongrass, but the requisite noodle demonstration focused our attention where it matters – on the extraordinary Handmade Noodles ($16.90) with beef brisket and mince. Roast Deboned Duck ($29.90) with lychees was over-sweet, but cooked so beautifully, nobody cared. The subversive new Piggy & Eggy Fairyland ($24.90) dessert tray offers the opportunity to stab your bun in the mouth so it vomits custard… artistically.
Shop 12, 501 George Street Sydney
Ph: (02) 9267 8877 chefsgallery.com.au