The bistro chef at Club Swans, Michael Milkovic, does an excellent job in the kitchen of this newly renovated space, walking the fine line between bistro classics and restaurant cuisine. We started with the house special of Chilli, Cheddar and Honey Bread ($7.50), then moved straight on to the large mains. The most expensive dish he serves, a New York 350g Sirloin with king prawns and porcini mushroom butter ($25), was excellent and complimented by snow peas so fresh I asked if he grew them himself (he doesn’t, but he does visit the markets himself twice a week), and some of the best Lyonnaise potatoes I have tried to date. A braised rack of Pork Ribs in Hoi Sin Sauce with Sesame Noodles ($22) was also impressive; and dessert ‘ a Raspberry and White Chocolate Bread and Butter Pudding ($8.50) with ice-cream – really sang. Whilst you order on level one, you can enjoy your meal anywhere in the club (including two great outdoor terraces, lounge bars and even some areas that are mercifully television free). The refit is both intimate and elegant, and they have some of the best wine by the glass prices in town ($4-$8.50). If you live outside a 5km radius of Club Swans, you don’t need to be a member. However for those who live close by, annual membership is a bargain at $5.50.
28 Darlinghurst Road, Kings Cross
Ph: (02) 8061 2300