Concrete Blonde *UPDATED*
- Jackie McMillan
- Wednesday, 2 May 2012
The restaurant formerly known as Concrete Blonde might have kept the name, but it certainly has a new outlook on life; one more in keeping with the area and these times. They’ve brought in Emmanuel Benardos (ex-Grand National), who has a reputation as a restaurant fixer. He’s already worked his magic on the boozy side of things, starting with a slick list of cocktails, from signatures like a standout Caramel Espresso Martini ($18) built with a frothy head on Genovese Coffee, to updated classics. Manoli promises his staff will go the extra mile; and backs it up with Sunday to Thursday BYO ($10/bottle) – if you can resist his personalised cellar tours. Mine gave rise to an interesting South African gem, the 2009 Boekhenhoutscloof ‘Porcupine Rydge’ Syrah ($68). Patrick Dang is replaced in the gleaming kitchen by Ian Oakes (another Grand National boy), who certainly puts that eye-catching grill to better use. You’ll see it in mains like Char-Grilled Yellowfin Tuna ($38) or the slightly chewy Blackmore Wagyu Skirt Steak ($38); and generous sides, including Char-Grilled Zucchini ($9). Make sure adding the excellent Thyme Gnocchi ($18) starter doesn’t prevent you from ordering dessert. After all, the standout White Chocolate and Honeycomb Parfait ($15) gives Manoli one more occasion to flex his formidable matching skills…
Shop 2/33 Bayswater Road, Kings Cross
Ph: (02) 9380 8307 www.concreteblonderestaurant.com.au
Modern Australian $$$$
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