Gone are the eccentric lamps and mismatched antiques that made The Victoria Room so endearing when it burst onto the Sydney bar scene around eight years ago. The new quartet of owners – The Lobo Plantation’s Michael Hwang and Eddie Levy, and The Island’s Adam Abrams and Julian Tobias – have redone the spacious loft with an L.A. country club in mind. Perky waitresses wait tables in cheeky tennis whites, allowing you to kick back on brown leather lounges or comfy banquettes. Spying classic desserts – a Rum Baba ($9) and an Eton Mess ($9) – I was getting a post-dinner pit stop vibe before our waitress lobbed me the latter in liquid form. Yes, the foamy meringue topped, gin-based Eton Fizz ($17) is an ace you can play anytime. Not really feeling inspired by an accessible trio of Sliders ($15/3) or over-cooked Confit Duck Leg and Hoisin Sauce Spring Rolls ($12), I was inclined to label this one a drinking venue; that is, until the DCC Lobster & Truffle Mac’n’Cheese ($24) landed. It’s well-worth enjoying while you pick through the Hubba Bubba-infused and banana lolly garnished cocktails searching for sophistication. It’s there, hidden in the L.A. Noire ($19) – basically your standard espresso martini with a spiced chai syrup twist – and the rum-based Harbour Vieux ($22).
Darlo Country Club
235 Victoria Street, Darlinghurst
Ph: (0449) 998 005 darlocountryclub.com.au
Bar, Bar Food, Cocktails $$-$$$