Elio
- Author:
- Jackie McMillan
- Posted:
- Wednesday, 22 July 2009
With a wham, bam and a young Italian brat pack full of suave confidence, Chef Daniele Giannuzzi brings to life a clever menu of “emotional Italian”, direct from Puglia in the ‘heel’ of Italy. His home-town delivers a fresh grassy extra virgin olive oil that floors me with Pane di Casa ($3). The meaty marinated Green Sicilian Olives ($7) excel. Ricotta and Potato Gnocchi ($21) with New Zealand rabbit ragu slide across the lips like fine silk pantyhose, seductively sinful. Fork split the soft egg on a mound of toothsome, house-made Straccetti Pasta with Duck Leg Maryland ($23) topped with slices of Umbrian black truffle and you’ll understand why I’m dribbling. The mains were humbling – house-milked Squid Ink Risotto ($29) is jet black. The briny mix of rice and finely diced seafood is strange and intoxicating; it’s topped with perfectly cooked New Zealand scampi and broad beans. Eight Hour Beer Braised Angus Beef Cheeks ($29) with roast chestnuts and porcini mushrooms are huge and perfect. I’m floored by them. Luckily I am able to be revived with a Vanilla Bean Pannacotta ($16) with house-made rosewater (so good I whimper) and liberal application of a 2006 Fasio Insolia ($40). If this ain’t the future of Sydney’s Italian cuisine, spank me.
Elio
159 Norton Street, Leichhardt
Ph: (02) 9560 9129 www.elio.com.au
Modern Italian $$$
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Story posted on Wednesday, 22 July 2009, filed under Dining Guide, Italian, Modern Italian. Follow responses via the RSS feed.
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