Forbes & Burton
- Author:
- Jackie McMillan
- Posted:
- Wednesday, 16 November 2011
In a post-Masterchef generation, it’s nice to see a restaurant go back to cooking dishes you couldn’t whip up at home. I last saw Chef Paul Pereira at Finefish, but it seems he can work culinary magic with more than just fishes. Paul’s keen palate makes gonzo dishes – like Oven Roasted Boneless Quail ($23) with saltimbocca, chicken liver parfait, dates, hazelnuts, a runny lil’ quail egg, maple syrup and wicked jelly cubes of hazelnut liqueur – totally seamless. Of course I still preferred his slightly simpler Pickled Beetroot ($20) with salted walnuts, goat’s curd sorbet and juicy orange jelly, but I’m fussy, no? Mains follow suit; the Slow Cooked, Roasted, Free-Range, Corn Fed ‘Marget’ Duck ($37) took line honours until I tried a side of Brussels Sprouts with Roasted Almonds and Perigord Truffle Butter ($8.50). It looks like a salad, but tastes like dirty sex. Desserts are the bomb – more whacky but workable combos and whimsical plating. It’s only a matter of time before Paul’s clever Petri dish Pineapple and Coconut Panna Cotta ($15) pops up all over town – every bite’s different! Add a wine list bursting with interest, an engaged owner, and the warmth and beauty of Alice Pamment (ex-Aperitif) on the floor for win, win and more win!
Forbes & Burton
252 Forbes Street, Darlinghurst
Ph: (02) 9356 8788 www.forbesandburton.com.au
Modern Australian/World $$$$
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Story posted on Wednesday, 16 November 2011, filed under Dessert, Dining Guide, Modern Australian, World. Follow responses via the RSS feed.
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