Despite just opening his tenth restaurant, celebrity restaurateur Luke Mangan was prowling the dining room during my weekday lunch. He acknowledged regulars and VIP guests, as he geared up for the book launch of friend and senior Macquarie Bank executive, Bill Moss. His latest venture, Weddings by Luke Mangan, is aimed at the thirties bride, possibly onto her second husband. She’s a discerning diner, and relishes that the visually elegant, soaring glass room requires little in the way of adornment. Her guests might enjoy Luke’s signature raw dish, Hiramasa Kingfish Sashimi, Ginger, Eschallot and Persian Feta ($30). It’s surprising; it’s also quite sweet, playing with my palate’s expectations, despite the waiter being quick to warn us as it landed. I am much more enamoured with the signature Organic Egg Omelette of Blue Swimmer Crab Meat, Enoki Mushroom and Herb Salad ($30), not least of which for the dramatic tableside addition of miso mustard broth. Luke’s not immune to the dude-food craze sweeping the city, though his Steamed Buns with Tempura Prawn & Pineapple Salsa ($10/pp) look a bit posh on the plate. Throw in Slow Cooked Octopus, Kimchi & Apple ($17) and crisp Parmesan & Truffle French Fries ($13) for a girls’ only luncheon at around a hundred bucks.
Level 2, 488 George Street, Sydney
Ph: (02) 9265-6068 www.glassbrasserie.com.au
Modern Australian $$$$