The Bartlett family have opened a community restaurant “a block and a half” from their family home. The dark and moody styling perplexes me, but does make a good background for daughter Ava Bartlett’s striking pool hall scene. Her brother Mitchell plays kitchen hand to his Mum Vicki, working with ingredients husband Pete has sourced locally. He hasn’t skimped on quality either, with grass-fed yearling porterhouse making a generous Moroccan Beef Salad ($14/$23) memorable. Grilled Haloumi ($12) caper, lime and coriander gets things off to a good start, suggesting tapas eating over mains. Kiwi background explains briny Green Lip Mussels ($14/$23) grilled in an interesting mix of orange juice, chilli, coriander and garlic. Okay, Vicki’s a shade enthusiastic about garlic; what with Butterflied Garlic Prawns ($12/$22) and her version of home cook hero Jamie Oliver’s Smashed Spuds ($8). Perfectly cooked Lamb Leg Skewers ($14/$23) win my vote in this affordable family affair, and since we’re talking family, feel free to BYO. You can also bring a slab – though preferably not at the same time (can’t set a bad example for the kiddies). In fact you can bring whatever you want, as much as you want, and pay nothing – it’s just like eating at home, just without the dishes!
445 New Canterbury Road, Dulwich Hill
Ph: (02) 8021 2965
Modern Australian $$