From slickly modern private dining rooms, to texture-rich ceramics and stone, highlighted by natural light flooding into what must have been a difficult u-shaped space, DS17 have taken the lessons of Alpha and outdone themselves. Equally so, in Head Chef Chris Yan’s hands, the now-extensive menu builds upon the ideas germinated in Lotus’s initial Walsh Bay outlet, but far surpasses them. The through-line is the dumplings – like Steamed Mud Crab and Pork Xiao Long Bao ($21/4) and Steamed Scallop Siu Mai ($14/4) – loaded with the expected premium fillings, but boasting even thinner skins. Surprisingly, your go-to dish from this selection, is the compelling Baked BBQ Pork Bun ($9/3) – perfect against a richly herb-infused Tea Thyme ($18) cocktail. Well-handled okra elevates Wok-fried King Prawns with Home-Made XO Sauce and Lime ($36) but the real stars are the dishes that celebrate natural, healthy, Aussie ingredients, homage to chef’s time with pioneer, Kylie Kwong. Gently closing your lips around the supple, yielding Crystal Ice Plant Salad ($16) is a revelation, and it responds favourably to Chinese interpretation with cucumber, enoki and black vinegar dressing. Equally exciting are the vibrant green saltbush leaves offsetting tender hunks of Wok-Fried Wallaby Rump ($29) that Chef Yan has cleverly sautéed in sweet-bean paste. Yes, this is the Chinese-Australian I’ve been waiting to enjoy.
Lotus @ The Galeries
The Galeries, Level 1, 500 George Street, Sydney
Ph: (02) 9267 3699 lotusrestaurant.com.au