- Jackie McMillan
- Wednesday, 20 June 2012
Over the last few years I’ve noticed a crucial difference in waiters. There are really two sorts – waiters who want to be something else, and career waiters. Restaurants which attract and hold career waiters, like Ema Tiller-Cordy, are usually excellent, or well on the way to being so. Ema spent a full month in training here before taking to the floor. Ergo, it’s unsurprising she can confidently design and deliver a personalised your-first-visit-to-Sokyo menu for me and my rather fetching stand-in dining companion. She won me with Spicy Tuna Crispy Rice ($20), a deceptive plate of nigiri sushi where luscious tuna hides a shock of crispy rice with the earthy resonance of truffles. My eyes also widened at the wasabi-like squiggle atop of the Queensland (spanner crab) Roll ($21). It’s definitely playful food. Even my least favourite dish, Kurobuta Black Pork Sashimi ($16), had me smiling at the idea (and the mouth-watering salty caramel sauce); whilst I scrubbed sous vide pork fat from my tongue using the rare mountain peaches in a wintery Yamamomo Sour ($20). Ema’s incredibly delicious menu also kept me hungry enough to truly enjoy a Dessert Tasting Plate ($26). The frothy white Miso Tapioca ($12) gave rise to my most wicked imaginings…
The Star, 80 Pyrmont Street (direct entrance on Union Street), Pyrmont
Ph: (1800) 700 700 www.star.com.au/sokyo
Modern Japanese/Fusion $$$$
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