I’m not totally down with the great chef exodus to Westfield. So rather than talking up the in-centre dining experience, I’ll just say: this room mostly belies you’re there. Regardless, Alessandro Pavoni is a great chef; and Fulvio Lancione is doing him proud behind the pans in this shiny, open-plan kitchen. The dishes come Italy’s north, so think freshwater fishes, like a light Crudo of Rainbow Trout with Beetroot, Sheep’s Yoghurt and Olives ($23). There’s also exceptionally tasty (and toothsome) pasta like Wholemeal Bigoli with Yabbies and Green Peas ($23). Don’t miss the (local) Organic Snails ($19) with silverbeet, egg yolk and ethereal potato puree, in a dish that neatly wrestles snails from the French. For a companion drink, this is the first place in Sydney to stock the Bologna blonde – Birra Ronzani ($19/750ml). Your taste buds may be tempted by the tingle of the signature Pirlo ($14) cocktail featuring Aperol, amicably lengthened, and available by the Jug ($26). Expect to pay for the gadget-rich setting, in price and what might be too-much perfection… The Spiedo Bresciano con Polenta ($39) was evenly cooked, but I preferred the slightly looser version at Ormeggio at The Spit. It’s churlish to quibble, so go live Lombardy at whichever of Alessandro’s settings suits you best.
Spiedo Restaurant & Bar
Shop 6004-6005 Level 6, Westfield Sydney, 188 Pitt Street, Sydney
Ph: (02) 8072 9999 www.spiedo.com.au