What a difference a year makes! Leigh McDivitt has come into his own in this tucked-away Rozelle gem; so well hidden that it escaped the notice of the SMH milliners! His Galantine of Quail and Foie Gras with Sweetcorn Puree and Basil Jelly ($24) hung together effortlessly. The jelly was bouncy, the puree fine, the tidy rounds of quail and foie gras moist and tasty – making it an utter pleasure to playfully combine. Leigh’s Bouillabaisse ($23) gives the classic dish a much-needed update – a ‘seashore’ foam sits on silky squid ink gnocchi speckled with beautifully cooked WA marron. The momentum is maintained by the mains – the Thirlmere Duck ($27) presents as a roasted breast accompanied by a crazy pink rhubarb gel, a puy lentil, ham hock and cuttlefish salad, and a duck liver and confit duck leg sausage that steals the show. As for the Tortellini of Porcini, Raisin and Leek with Cavolo Nero Puree and Porcini Veloute ($28) it’s easily the best vegetarian dish I’ve eaten in the last year. Add to this Nicholas Luhman’s mastery of the wine list – beginning with a glass of Louis Roederer NV ($22) then rising to the vanilla oak of a cracking 2008 Dog Point Chardonnay ($59) – and you have one amazing meal.
The Restaurants @ 3 Weeds
197 Evans Street, Rozelle
Ph: (02) 9818 2788 www.3weeds.com.au
Gastro Pub $$$$